6/14/2023 0 Comments Mt1261a snap on timing light![]() Thanks, now i remember, i just found the peice of paper and read it and forgot is on top of the 12 initial. your timing light should enable you to set an rpm and see exactly what the advance is, so you can ramp it up to 6000 and see if you have 32 but beware spinning fan blades and rotating mass (flywheels) which might decide its a good time to fly off (its hapenned). Your centrifugal advance kicks off at 1200 so you wont see 12 at 1500 (but should at 1100) at 3000 it should be 22 (initial plus 10 ) at 6000 should be 32 total. Hope im reading this right, 12 initial is your idle speed setting (initial advance) Snap-on Tach Advance Timing Light Mt1261a. Ive never owned a advance timming light, in the past ive just set the dizzy with no.1plug out and set it on the road so maybe i sound a bit dumb here but my specs from the distrubtor say- Snap-on Snapon Tools Computerized Tach Advance Timing Light Mt1261a Mt126 1a. It would be nice to permanently mount one under the hood of a muscle car, LED at the harmonic balancer.FCCOOL wrote:ok, looking at the buttons i think i see how it works. This site ripped off the schematic Pre-amp, one-shot and LED array driver. There are schematics of it floating around the web, it's free to look at the Circuit Notebook or next url they want money, confusing. I did like Silicon Chip magazine's automotive LED timing light May 2005. Who even needs a MCU in a timing light? I guess it could pre-flash for longer duration but that still makes a blur. Snap On is expensive, but no protection at the IC inputs, so too late to fix. They had to be tossed in the garbage bin and management never again tried any product development, they were so pissed off. I've seen engineers do a SMPS with custom thick film modules and after getting 20,000pcs in, a design bug is found. The NRE cost is very high and the design has to be rock solid because there are high minimum order quantities. When you see a thick-film module like that, you know it's a good concept to make it small and cheap but very high risk. The output from this yellow rock goes off directly into the micro pin with just a couple of capacitors to ground as it travels the 10 inches or so from handle to micro. The question is really, is that one ohm reasonable under any circumstance? I cannot think of one situation where a small, dual opamp like this would only have one ohm between two output pins. Looking at the datasheets they don't seem that dissimilar so I stuck one in and now no flashing at all. Opamp suitably discorporate and joined the dust that is ever present in our polluted planet and the one ohm is still there so it is in the circuit under the yellow rock. So now I either try to remove more yellow rock to gain access to the circuit or I remove the opamp and buzz again. Get your next Snap- Snap-on MT1261A Tachometer + Advance Measurement + Timing Light directly via Croooober Japan, the largest marketplace for used auto. This does not (to me) seem very sensible. Once I got access to the opamp pins I was able to buzz out a few things and it seems that the two outputs have a resistance of only one ohm between each other. There was an eight pin DIL lump under the yellow so I carefully ground it away and it was as I expected, an LM393N dual opamp. ![]() ![]() That leaves me with this CRL8645M thing, a yellow blob and that yellow stuff is HARD. Snap On tool boxes- two 42in, 13 drawer toolboxes in custom made tubing frame cabinet on wheels with wood work. White is connected to ground and white > red and white > black give me differential signals from the inductive pickup so I am assuming that part is OK. i use a snap-on sp500 timing kit to get a reference point and then a mt257b pulse adpapter and a mt1261a digital timing light to find at what degree the injector is popping at that reference point if 6.2mm of lift ends up being 18 on the light you know to subract six tenths of a mm from the reference point cuz every tenth of lift equals. The inductive pickup has three wires, red, black and white. The symptoms are that it will not flash when connected to a vehicle but it does flash if I stick a wire through the inductive pickup and step input a couple of amps so bulb and Xenon circuit, micro, rev counter and all the workings seem to be OK.
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